ULM
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The City
Ulm is a very old and proud city. Its glory was in the 15th century when it was one of the largest, richest and most important cities in the Holy Roman Empire of German Nations. Ulm has an interesting history with many highs and lows, and has come to new wealth and importance as a modern city with a young university, car and metal industry, a science park and a large service sector. More than 110,000 people live in Ulm and the suburbs which are entirely part of the state Baden-Württemberg.
The Danube is not as blue and wide as it is in Vienna, rather a small greenish river: it's still more than 2,000 km to the Black Sea. It separates Ulm from Neu-Ulm which was founded in the 19th century after the Danube was declared to be the border between Bavaria and Württemberg.
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If you have only one day in Ulm, go to the Münster and climb the steeple, the tallest of all churches in the world. Then move on to the Rathaus (town hall) and the Fischerviertel, the picturesque old town of Ulm.
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Getting There
Since Ulm is a pretty small city, it hasn’t got an airport. The next major international airports are in Munich and Frankfurt, smaller ones are in Stuttgart (the closest to Ulm), Augsburg and Friedrichshafen. But since no one travels to Europe or Germany just to visit Ulm only, it doesn’t really matter were you arrive. Ulm has excellent direct train connections to many European cities since it is right in the middle of the old Paris-Vienna Orient Express route. There are also direct buses to many cities throughout Europe. If you travel by car, Ulm is close to the Autobahnen 7 and 8. No. 7 is part of the European transit system and runs from the Danish border to the Alps.
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To and From the Airport
The only less costly ways to go to Ulm from any of the airports are either by train or by car. If you arrive at Stuttgart, take an S-Bahn to Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof (central station) and board one of the many trains to Ulm. It shouldn’t take much longer than one and a half hours (20 €). The same should be done if you arrive at Frankfurt (2,5 hours, 50 €) or Munich (2 hours, 30 €). Only Stuttgart and Munich are recommended as arrival airports if someone wants to pick you up by car, Frankfurt is almost three hours away, and traffic on the Autobahn can be very bad.
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Tourist Info
Ulm has a Tourist Information Office that is open during business hours, between May and October also on Sundays. You can find it in the ground floor of the Stadthaus next to the Münster.
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Gay Magazines
Well, Ulm hasn’t got any... But what do you expect from a 110,000-people city right in the middle of Germany’s most conservative south? Some events could appear in the local pages of the gay tabloid “BOX” that you can find in the gay pubs.
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Money Saving Tips
The UlmCard doesn’t only allow free rides on the public transport system (buses and trams) in Ulm and Neu-Ulm, but gives many discounts if you want to climb the Münster’s steeple or visit one of the three important museums. Also good for discounts for guided tours and tickets for the Ulm opera house and many other things. It’s 6 €/10€ for one/two days for one person.
If you stay longer, buy a weekly ticket at Traffiti near the Münster for 12,50 €. It allows unlimited travel on all buses and the tram of Ulm and Neu-Ulm. Unfortunately, it is valid from Monday to the following Sunday only.
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Must Do's
Ulm has, despite its size, some most important tourist attractions. The most obvious is the Ulmer Münster, the church with the tallest steeple in the world: 161.53 meters. It was built between 1377 and 1890 and is located in the center of Ulm; indeed very difficult to overlook. If you climb the 768 steps to the top outlook in a height of 143 meters above ground, you will have a breathtaking view. Good weather and dry air allow a panoramic view of the Alps, and the most distant mountains are more than 220 km away.
Inside the Münster the 15th century choir stalls built by Jörg Syrlin are a masterpiece of wood carving. The church is open between 8 or 9 am and 4:45 to 7:45, depending on the season; admission is free. The steeple can be climbed from the first opening of the church until one hour before closing time. The ascent costs 3 € and is not recommended for people with circulatory problems, if you have height anxiety or suffer from claustrophobia. It’s nevertheless safe, but you must be able to climb narrow winding stairs in endless tubes. There are several levels in the tower where you can rest.
Ulm has a picturesque Old Town with many buildings dating back into the 14th century. Not far away from the Münster is the Ulmer Rathaus (town hall). Its facade painting dates back to early Renaissance. The astronomical clock on the wall of the southern wing is from 1520.
Between the Rathaus and the Danube is the Fischerviertel (fishermen’s quarter) with many restaurants, shops and galleries. The small river Blau is running through this quarter which is Ulm’s oldest part. Around 800 an imperial court was built on one of the hills. The remnants of a Staufian wall date back to the 12th century. Don’t miss the Schiefes Haus (leaning house) which is more than 700 years old. The city wall protects Ulm against the rising waters of the Danube when the snow in the Black Forest and the Alps melts.
Ulm has one of the largest fortresses of Europe, the Ulmer Bundesfestung. Built between 1842 and 1859 with French war compensations of 1815, it shaped Ulm’s future as a major garrison which hasn’t lost its importance until these days. Many parts of the old fortress are still visible on both sides of the Danube.
Other important attractions include the Museum of Bread Culture, the Ulmer Museum, the internationally important High School for Design (1955-1968; the buildings are now part of Ulm’s university), and the former Benedictine Kloster Wiblingen (Wiblingen Monastery). Kloster Wiblingen, about 5 km outside of Ulm’s city, has a baroque church and one of the most beautiful rococo library halls of Southern Germany. The Ulmer Theater features opera, concerts, theatre and ballet. The Stadthaus (city hall) in front of the Münster was designed by the New York architect Richard Meier and built in 1993.
If you’re lucky enough to come to Ulm in late July, you shouldn’t miss one of the oldest local public holidays in the world, the “Schörmontag”. Since the end of the 14th century, the lord mayors of Ulm have to report their doings and swear to the people of Ulm to be a common citizen. This tradition is commemorated with a ceremony on the second last Monday in July. After the ceremony, Ulm’s people go to the Danube river and enjoy the “Nabada” – thousands of people float down the river with self-made boats. A great fun for everyone. There are lots of parties and festivals on the days around Schwörmontag.
Ulm has a modern university with a world-class attraction that is open to the public: the Kunstpfad. About 60 sculptures and architectural works of art from artists like Max Bill or Niki de Saint-Phalle are scattered in the park around the university next to a 1.5 km path. Take a bus 3 or 5 to James-Franck-Ring.
Two individuals are connected with Ulm’s name. The most known is Albert Einstein who was born there. The other is Albrecht Ludwig Berblinger, the “Schneider von Ulm” (Tailor of Ulm). He was the first person who constructed a machine that should allow him to fly, but his first public appearance in 1811, with even the king present, ended in the Danube, and he broke his arm. In 1986 it was shown that his apparatus was actually able to carry a human, but the lack of thermal above the river was responsible for the failure.
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Days Out
Ulm is located on the border between the German states Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria on the Danube river. The Danube marks the northern edge of the wide plain between the Swabian Alb, a low limestone range, and the Alps. The Alb is quite beautiful, lacks open water and big cities. If you’re into caves, there are about a thousand to visit. Some are near Ulm: the Laichinger Tiefenhöhle and the Charlottenburger Höhle.
About 120 km south of Ulm is the Lake of Constance. Less distant are the northern mountains of the Alps. Take a train for a day trip to Kempten, Friedrichshafen or Lindau.
The river Blau’s spring in Blaubeuren (25 km west of Ulm), the Blautopf, is truly blue. It actually is the opening of a water-filled cave that leads far into the limestone range. No one is allowed any more to dive into it because of its dangers. But the spring pool is beautiful anyway. Take a train to Blaubeuren.
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Gay Life
Gay life in Ulm is not too well developed. There are only a few pubs, but a regular disco every fortnight in the Donauturm attracts people from everywhere. The university has a gay/lesbian/bisexual group, and the Ulmer aids Hilfe has regular meetings. To know more, check out the leaflets in the pub Zum Alten Fritz, or ask the publican.
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Dangers
Ulm is a small city, so don't openly show that you're gay. Germany has recently seen a political change to more tolerance towards gay and lesbian life, but it will take at least another generation until these ideas have entered most people's heads.
In general, Ulm is very safe, so you don't have to fear robbery or theft.
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